The Muskokan
Escape the ordinary at Delta Sherwood
by By Julia Kilpatrick - special to the Muskokan
Oct 18, 2007

Richard Lalonde loves an honest meal.

As executive chef at Delta Sherwood Inn, Lalonde creates exquisite meals using the freshest ingredients available, even if it means harvesting the produce with his own hands from one of the gardens on-site.

“It’s all about the honesty in the food,” he says. “There’s no faking it. Our guests know the difference.”
Lalonde’s roots are in traditional Quebecois and French cuisine, but he also draws inspiration from Latin American fare. He spent 15 years honing his skills in some of the most exclusive kitchens in Ontario and Quebec before taking the helm at the Delta Sherwood in 2004. Lalonde’s commitment to using fresh, local ingredients and his creative blending of new- and old-world cuisine has transformed the inn into one of Muskoka’s premier dining destinations.

Part of the appeal is undeniably the location: the inn is nestled in the woods along the shore of Lake Joseph, where the setting sun casts long shadows through a fringe of feathery pines.
The atmosphere in the dining room is intimate, and the staff attentive and courteous. As my guest and I arrive we are greeted by general manager Roger Tremblay, who leads us on a quick tour of the grounds and gardens before ushering us into the dining room with an air of easy hospitality.

Once seated, server Chuck Murney appears instantly with the menus. The variety of dishes makes for a difficult decision, as my guest deliberates over the Georgian Bay pickerel and the duck, while I waver between the Nova Scotia lobster and the Supreme of Chicken. We consult Murney, who suggests the duck and the lobster, and we happily leave the wine selection to his expertise.

We are not disappointed. To match the lobster, Murney delivers a glass of Robert Mondavi Private Selection Chardonnay, a refreshing wine with notes of butter and oak and a smooth finish. To complement the duck, he brings a Bordeaux-like house blend from Chateau Haute Jarousse, tart and peppery with a lingering sweetness.

The meal begins with an amuse bouche of fresh tomato and cucumber gazpacho, served in a pair of frosty shot glasses. We also choose between an assortment of artisan breads, including a savoury olive loaf and a semi-sweet blueberry and walnut bread.

For an appetizer, my companion chooses the foie gras, served with a sweet berry crumble and baby sprouts. The tender meat melts away to a creamy finish, complemented by the tanginess of the fruit. I opt for a salad made with red lettuce, fresh crab and crispy asparagus and finished with a light dressing.

After cleansing the palate with a tart lemon-infused strawberry sorbet, we are ready for the main course. The lobster is delightful — served out of the shell, the meat perches atop two cabbage rolls stuffed with lobster, shrimp, shallots and mascarpone cheese. The dish is finished with a green pea purée tasting of garlic, white wine, cream and butter. Two giant Digby scallops and fresh-picked wild mushrooms complete the dish.

The duck is tender and flavourful, served medium-rare with a choke-cherry reduction. It is accompanied by hearts of palm, lentils and a blend of fresh baby vegetables, harvested locally and featured under the Savour Muskoka label, which signifies dishes made from ingredients harvested in the Muskoka region.
“We’re always changing things around and keeping it seasonal,” Lalonde says. “It’s also a way to support those people who are trying to make a living.”

To finish the meal, my companion chooses a platter of cheeses from New Brunswick and Quebec, served with Muskoka honeycomb, cranberry chutney and fresh breads. I choose the dulce de leche cheesecake, which is light and sweet, served with a guava reduction and fresh blueberries. A bold cup of decaf coffee from the Muskoka Roastery is the perfect, satisfying end to a refreshing meal.